Newfoundland, Canada! A magical place inhabited by Vikings long before Columbus got busy discovering places that the locals were already well aware of. I grew up hearing so much about this island, its history and its music, the people, there was no more waiting. I was on my way to my 15 day hiking adventure across Newfoundland.
Flying into St. John’s, you first notice the stark contrast of the vividly coloured houses perched against the backdrop of dark grey seaside cliffs. Looking down, Fishing boats could be seen precariously moored to their docks, well exposed to the moody and mighty Atlantic Ocean.
Once on the ground my first stop was Butter Pot Provincial Park, my first residence of this 15 day adventure on The Rock. Arriving at the park office, I was greeted by a stunning figure named Julia. Her cascade of blonde curls, azure blue eyes and elfin nose made her look like a princess from the cast of Game of Thrones.
I asked where groceries could be purchased late on a Sunday night.
With an accent that made it clear this was Newfoundland, she replied,
“The stores will be open in CBS”
“CBS?” I inquired.
“Conception Bay South (you dummy/mainlander) take the next exit off of the Trans Canada” she instructed.
The Sobey’s store was an extravaganza of Newfoundland culture. I found a whole section of Newfoundland made Purity biscuits. There were pork scruncheons in the fish display. Of course, scruncheons are all part of a local delicacy known as fish ‘n brewis, hence their location.
Bountiful Blueberries Ripe for the picking
Hitting the Road
After packing up camp I found myself in the charming enclave of Hollyrood. In the local Tim Horton’s coffee shop you could hear (at a level that invited everyone into the conversation) a lady working there say to a customer,
“I heard about the engagement, Violet called and says she saws it on the Facebook”.
Welcome to Newfoundland.
Back in my vehicle I looked over my map to determine my best course to the Bonavista peninsula when a girl in the car next to me yelled over,
“Hey buddy is ya lost?”
After explaining my destination, she kindly suggested a scenic seaside route following Conception Bay or perhaps, CB.
Bobbing and weaving along the coast road, I was greeted by cove after cove of maritime beauty. It’s what local writer Ray Guy would have described as “charm infested”.
I got to the peninsula and found myself in the historical town of Trinity. It’s stunning and looks like the cover of a tourism brochure. The late day sun cast a golden hue on the town making it even more magical. I stopped to take a photo just as a fishing boat was passing some colourful homes out on a point. It looked like an ad for Tourism Newfoundland.
The next morning was time to do the legendary Skerwink Trail. It’s highly rated and I was curious to find out what all the fuss was about. Shortly after starting off, another blueberry patch appeared. Not wanting spend the whole day there, I made my way to the coastal trail and was transfixed. The ocean was flat as glass and the clifftop views were nothing short of fantastic. When you come out of the forest, you arrive on a plain where you’re greeted by a strong ocean breeze and where seabirds call to each other as they drift in the turbulent air. You quickly realise why this trail has become so renowned.
Puffins were next on the menu, not to eat but to see. The town of Elliston is puffin central and is all things puffin. I dodged all the puffinesque named shops and restaurants and found the viewpoint that promised spectacular views of the little orange billed seabird. Well, apparently they unaware of my arrival and my mistake for not booking a viewing time with their management. Perhaps it was their day off. At this point, 0 for 1 on the puffin hunt.
Bonavista is a place known to me from song more than anything and a visit seemed appropriate. It’s a charming town well set up for summer tourists with plenty of shops and restaurants. The lighthouse point has fantastic ocean views and plenty of interesting historical displays. Dungeon Provincial Park was a suggested destination and is an interesting if not confusing place to visit. A dirt track takes you through a seaside pasture where cows quietly spend their days taking in the ocean views whilst being completely unmolested by puffins. A number of other drivers looking as bewildered as me, driving around looking for something that we weren’t quite sure of. At least cows seemed to enjoy the company.
Life in town
The Rugged Rocks gastropub was the perfect place to catch up on what the locals were up to. As eluded to earlier, if you’re in the building, you’re in the conversation. “Townies” was the topic of the day and how the local accent was noticeably different in town as it was from people across the bay. Having learned more than planned, I left town following the north shore of the peninsula, where I didn’t notice any discernible difference in the accent.
Next: Bonavista to Gros Morne
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Updated January 20, 2024
Enjoyed your article on your arrival to the East Coast, CBS and of course the local element, which would be the highlight of the trip, in my eyes. Will look forward to reading more of your travels.
Hi James, what a lovely beginning to your travel blog. I’m curious as to your lodging, we thought about doing a long weekend in NFL but found the B&Bs and Hotels expensive so we passed. I also heard it’s difficult to find vegetables, lots of fried foods. But it sounds like you may have found efficiency cabins so you could make your own meals. I’d love a post about where you stayed too.
Also, a comment for your about section, I wasn’t able to leave a comment there: we will be in Athens in March, will your work be displayed then too?
Hi Eva, I was camping so I can’t comment on accommodations. It was a “come home” year as well so rental cars and places to stay were in very high demand. I usually ate out once a day and had no problem finding good food. Grilled fish and seasonal vegetables were available. I usually asked locals and fellow travelers for a recommendation and it always worked out. Menus written in chaulk are my favourite. I’ll be posting part two tomorrow.
So you weren’t able to post a comment in the comment section? My photo will be on exhibition at the Blank Wall Gallery the last week of February. Not sure how long it lasts. It’s all B&W photos.
What an enjoyable read. That Sobey’s in CBS is such a treat! It’s the one I visit when I stay with my brother just up the road, across from where the coffee shop use to be 😉
Adorable!