4. Fogo Island

The remains of a tramway that served as an important link to the islands around Dildo Run was located right in my campground and needed to be checked out. I went to investigate and met a couple who had just returned from a Fogo Island day trip. They had a great time and recommended that I go. I found the online ferry schedule and could go in the morning. After a swim in “the run” I was off to bed for an early morning start.

My Fogo Island one day adventure started at the ferry terminal at 6am and was able to catch up on some sleep while I waited for the 8am ferry. I awoke to the sound of truck engines snorting to life and the line began to move. Noticing my grey hair, the ticket seller offered me a senior’s discounted ticket, $16 round trip. I was used to British Columbia ferry prices and this was a bargain.

The ferry made one stop during the one hour voyage at Change Island. One vehicle got off, the island’s postal van. The captain and crew were highly skilled and it was like a Formula 1 pit stop, we barely stopped moving. The morning sun and cool breeze felt good up on the observation deck. The summer temperatures had been unusually high and the afternoon would be hot.

We arrived at the island and I made my way to the visitor’s centre as quickly as possible to avoid the crowds. A kind lady with a thick Fogo accent planned a day trip for me and gave me directions to the nearest cup of coffee.

Coffee was to be found at the Cod Jigger Café where a delightful lady in a bright pink t-shirt served me (more foreshadowing here). Off I went to my first stop, The Marconi Museum. The museum was once a radio repeater station where signals came in and were sent on to the next station in the chain. This way the whole island of Newfoundland was served with communication services, news and weather reports.

The Lions Den Trail was conveniently located next to the museum. It follows the north shore of the island were delicious wild blueberries and delightful ocean views are plentiful. Interpretive signage indicated that settlers actually tried to make a living in this harsh environment until the government relocated these hardy folks to more civilised surroundings.

The infamous Fogo Island Inn was my next destination. I was allowed to walk in from the main road and photograph the building’s exterior. The Inn looks quite out of place amongst its stark featureless surroundings. It appeared like a building from Star Wars when I viewed it from across the bay. I noticed cars with French license plates in the parking lot. I later discovered that Newfoundland is where inhabitants of the French Islands of St. Pierre et Miquelon come in the summertime.

A minimum three night stay at the in will run you about $10,000. Somewhat more than the $20 per night campsite that I was staying at.

Joe Batt’s Arm hiking trail was next. It was sunny and close to 30 degrees celsius. A stop in the museum, a converted fishing stage, made a welcome break from the sun. The trail has a couple of features that had me intrigued. First is the “Long Studio”, one of four studios where artists can stay for a month and do their thing. The architecture by Todd Saunders who also designed the inn. At the tip of the peninsula is a bronze Auk statue looking out towards it’s twin on the Reykjanes Peninsula in Iceland. The statue is the work of artist Todd McGrain.

The intense heat and sunshine made me want to go for a swim. Since I hadn’t seen anyone all afternoon, I thought I would just strip off my clothes and jump in the ocean but of course just then, a woman up on a clifftop waved at me. I jumped in fully dressed which was alright as my clothes had dried by the time I got back.

Next stop was the grocery store for some popsicles then to Squish Studio in the hamlet of Tilting. I was able to park at the local museum and hike in to see the studio. It’s small and perched on a cliff with a spectacular view of the ocean.

The final studio was the Tower studio. It is a long way off the road and has an odd plank boardwalk that meanders across a flat plain. I walked in until I was close enough to get a photo and was on my way.

The last ferry of the day was at 7pm and I didn’t want to miss it so I made my way to the docks where I found a picnic table and shade from the oppressive sunshine.

I got onto the ferry and found my way to the viewing deck. Here I found the lady in the bright pink t-shirt from the Cod Jigger. She told me she was going to visit her family back in Grand Falls. I told her how much I enjoyed the Third Place Café.

“My Daughter works next door at the Salmonoid Centre next door” she said with excitement.

“The girl that showed me the way to the salmon viewing area?” I asked.

“Yes she’s the one”

Jan. 24, Twillingate to St. John’s

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Updated June 17, 2024