Bonavista to Gros Morne
Terra Nova National Park was my next stay. The park offers a myriad of trails and the Coastal Trail following Newman Sound beckoned me. The rugged up and down trail through lush green growth eventually comes to a clearing where you can view the crystal clear waters of Newman Sound and perhaps even go for a swim. A couple working for the park were enjoying a swim. Their “home” park is Prince Albert National Park and Terra Nova was just a summer gig. Telling them of my desire to see some wildlife and I was dutifully informed that PA National Park was the place to go with bison, wolves, otters, moose and bears and only 6,000 km away. The idea was put it in the back of my mind, way back at that point.
An hours drive northwest brings you to the North Atlantic Aviation Museum in Gander it’s a well laid out little gem offering several displays of Newfoundland’s role in aviation. You’ll discover the importance of Gander’s airport and of course, the “Come From Away” story which put Gander on the map, again, this time during 9/11. The airport itself is minutes away so I went to see for myself where the drama played out.
Grand Falls was my next stop and I was looking forward to seeing “the falls” as they sounded rather….grand. A ways off the Trans Canada Highway lies the Third Place Café and the Salmoniod Centre which are both in close proximity to the Exploits River so the falls could probably be seen there. After a wonderful lunch at the Third Place, I headed next door to the Salmonoid Centre and saw some water falling over rocks but it was not at all what was imagined.
From what could be gathered from locals was the falls no longer existed and a hydro electric dam stood in there its place (more or less). So, no falls, grand or otherwise. A staff member at the centre directed me to a building and told me to ask the young lady* (foreshadowing) in the building to direct me to the salmon viewing area. Indeed!, there were salmon, no puffins, however, salmon could be clearly seen through the glass. All was not lost.
Gros Morne National Park was my next destination and all I knew about it was that it had great hiking trails and spectacular scenery. After a lengthy and disagreeable encounter with the national park reservation website, a reservation was made at Trout River campground.
The drive into Trout River is nothing short of spectacular. The winding road undulates dramatically through the mountains and lands you in the charming village of Woody Point, once the launching point for the ferry northward but since bypassed by a new highway. A left turn toward Trout River brings about a number of surprises. First, a sign that warns you that the road could close at anytime. Next a stunning yellow building perched on the hillside unexpectedly appears. It’s the park’s Discovery Centre full of wonderful displays, informative hosts and a cafe. Once you pass this point you’re suddenly faced with…The Tablelands!
I’ll leave out the expletives expressed at the moment but needless to say, it will get your attention. These rare rock formations are the reason the park was established. Geologists knew they had something special and went about getting support to protect this jewel in the wild. This was the birth of Gros Morne National Park.
After arriving at the campground, Marcella an indigenous interpreter introduced herself. She works for Parks Canada. She invited me to that evening’s sacred fire circle. It sounded intriguing. Marcella is of the Mi’kmaq (pronounced Mingma) peoples and explained their traditions, lead us through a smudging ceremony and sang to us in her native language. It was an enchanting and enlightening evening.
The next morning I had a cruise on Westbrook “Pond” booked had to drive to the far end of the massive park in a hurry then hike 45 minutes to the boat launch. In Newfoundland most bodies of fresh water are referred to as ponds, no matter their size. Rivers and creeks are often called brooks. In this case Westbrook is a landlocked fjord full of incredibly pure, deep, clear water. The hour and a half cruise takes you up and down the “pond” while entertaining hosts explain its history as well as how they miraculously dragged two cruise boats into their landlocked place of residence.
Exploring Woody Point was next on the list and I discovered Galliot’s Studio and ceramics studio featured on CBC television’s Still Standing. It’s an old fishing stage (shed) that Jennifer Galliot’s grandfather had owned. It’s perfectly placed with a spectacular view of Bonne Bay nestled among the mountains. On its quaint patio you can enjoy their wonderful coffee from a ceramic mug made in house as well as home made treats to satisfy your sweet tooth.
The neighbouring Old Loft Restaurant is also blessed spectacular views but also offers fresh fish from fishing boats you can see right from its patio. Down on main floor is a treasure trove of all things Newfoundland and offers wealth of locally hand knit woolen wear. I got some socks.
A guided hike through the Tablelands is offered by park staff which made the somewhat desolate surroundings come to life. Matthias explained all the fascinating characteristics of this geological gem which included the Pitcher Plant, Newfoundland’s provincial flower. This unusual plant is a carnivore, consuming insects that fall into its clutches. The guided hikes and interpretive programs are not to be missed and really add to your stay in the park.
A hike up Lookout Trail conveniently located behind the Discovery Centre is a great way to see the local landscape from up high. The weather changes dramatically at altitude and I found my self walking through the clouds getting wet from the rain that was still too high to fall. Terrific views of Bonne Bay and Woody Point could be seen while the ceiling of cloud brushed my head. There’s a small platform at the summit where park staff have placed two red Muskoka chairs as a prize for making it to the top. Other parks have since adopted this bit of fun placing chairs in secret locations for the more adventurous to find.
The park has a huge population of moose and seeing one would be great. Mathius suggested trekking the Stuckless Pond Loop. I wandered about until sundown and headed back to the campground mooseless. Driving back, there noticeable pink clouds. I took a photo but was still curious about how the clouds got so pink. Heading up and over the rise where the Tablelands first appeared, there it was, a red, no really red, sunset under a ceiling of low hanging dark clouds. The sunset reflected shades of red and pink into the clouds and the mystery was solved.
The Green Garden Trail was highly recommended and people come from all over to seek it’s rugged beauty. A truck from Germany was on one side of me and another from Alaska was on the other side of me in the parking lot. It starts with a 100 metre ascent and then makes its way to the Gulf of St. Lawrence 400 metres below.
It was a particularly hot summer with temperatures pushing 30 degrees centigrade and the strength summer sun in Newfoundland is not to be taken lightly. I ended up meeting some people from the Tablelands hike and we hiked together working our way along the wild, primitive coastline until we could go no further. Along the way they talked about this amazing café in Grand Falls called the Third Place. We found a staircase taking us to the rugged beach where pieces of fishing boats could be found, remnants from unimaginable ocean storms. We stopped for lunch where a river flowed into the gulf. Here we tested the water temperature and splashed around on the beach. Mathius mentioned a trail that followed the river and up a fantastic set of waterfalls. Feeling adventurous, we followed the river trail, climbed the falls and ran out of trail. We bushwacked our way back to the main trail and made the hot, sun drenched journey back. The parking lot looked like an oasis.
Next stop: Blow me down
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Updated February 27, 2024
You captured NFLD and Gros Morne beautifully. I’ve yet to get to that National Park, but want to some day. Any thought of leading tours in the future? And is traveling your new full-time gig now?
Thank you Jill, leading groups has crossed my mind. We shall see.